The Michelin Guide Tokyo 2010 & Travel Tips

It’s been three years since the debut of the first Japanese Michelin guide and this year, with the 2010 guide, there are more restaurants in it than ever.

With a total of 234 establishments included in the book, 11 of which received three stars, Tokyo is now outshines Paris (and its paltry 10 three-starred locales) as the centre of the gastronomical world.

Moving up a notch this year from two to three stars are Esaki and Sushi Saito, both in the ‘new Japanese cuisine’ category, and Yukimura in the category of Japanese cuisine. Taking a step back, however, from three stars to two was Hamadaya, also in ‘Japanese cuisine’.

Newcomer Seisoka shot straight to two stars in the ‘Japanese cuisine’ category, a further eight restaurants upgraded to two stars, and another 42 restaurants claimed one star. All in all, Tokyo has a dazzling total of 261 stars, the highest total number of stars in any of the globe-spanning Michelin guide book series.

Mention should be made of a number of new categories, including izakayas (Japanese-style pubs), kushiage (deep-fried skewers) and yakitori (grilled chicken skewer) restaurants. Japanese cuisine is by far the dominant cuisine in the guide comprising nearly 70 percent of the 197 restaurants listed.

While the team of reviewers in the 2009 guide was made up of five Japanese inspectors and one from Europe, the 2010 reviews were done by a team of seven, all Japanese excepting the editor-in-chief. This may explain the clear emphasis on the Japanese palate.

Michelin Guide director Jean-Luc Naret comments, ‘Restaurants such as izakayas and yakitori
restaurants have been on our radar for some time. After continual review, we have deemed them worthy of being awarded stars. As a result, the 2010 edition has seen an increase in categories.’

In the meantime, for a rundown on who made the grade check out our guide to the list of restaurants that truly are the new stars of the Tokyo restaurant scene.

Esaki

This newly three-starred restaurant features nouveau Japanese cuisine. Unlike most three star restaurants, it’s open for lunch and with courses starting at ¥3675, it’s the best priced three-star of the bunch.
Address: B1 Hills Aoyama Bldg, 3-39-9 Jingumae, Shibuya, Tokyo

青山　えさき
東京都渋谷区神宮前3-39-9 ヒルズ青山地下1階
Telephone: (03)3408 5056
Open: Thu-Sat 12noon–13:30pm LO, Mon-Sat 6pm-11pm LO 9:30pm, closed Sun and nat. holidays
Website: www.aoyamaesaki.net/
Sushi Saito

This sushi restaurant is another two-to-three star upgrade. A clear favorite of Michelin’s Naret was quoted as saying he ‘wanted to make this place my own,’ which created a flurry of interest in this restaurant. Sushi Saito’s owner, however, seems unfazed by the attention responding at a recent Michelin press conference, ‘We’ve been acknowledged for keeping things at the same standard we always have.’
Address: 1F Nihon Jitensha Kaikan, 1-9-15 Akasaka, Minato, Tokyo
Telephone: (03)3589 4412

Sushi Saito is one of the eleven restaurants in Tokyo to be given three Michelin stars in 2010. Monday Flying’s resident food writer, Jingwen, shares his experience at Sushi Saito and why this unassuming sushi restaurant is, as described by the Michelin guide, “worth a special journey”.

Why is Tokyo-based Sushi Saito a 3 star Michelin restaurant? I give you complete review.

I’m walking around the Jidousha Kaikan building which Sushi Saito is housed, but I can’t find it! Having already circled the building for about 3 times and asking several people on the street, I really am about to give up since it’s getting late.

Luckily, I manage to grab hold of a helpful policeman who finally gives me the right directions to Sushi Saito.

I finally understand why it was so hard to find. Sushi Saito is not located at the side of the building and cannot be accessed like a normal restaurant: the entrance to the corridor where Sushi Saito is located is halfway up the carpark ramp!

Here is a step by step guide from street side to Sushi Saito’s door step:

Step 1: This is the entrance of the carpark.

Step 2: When you turn into that doorway, you will see the entrance of Sushi Saito!

For such a quiet location, what is so special about Sushi Saito?

Currently, it is one of the three sushi restaurants that have been awarded 3 Michelin Stars in 2010, the other two being Sukiyabashi Jiro Honten and Sushi Mizutani.

If you take a look inside, you can see that they are not concerned about earning more money. Sushi Saito offers an intimate interior where the chef can focus his attention on each customer to provide the best quality of sushi possible.

In the restaurant, there are only 7 seats. The entire place is probably smaller than an apartment room. This constraint in seating is also why the restaurant is packed on most days, leaving a long wait in terms of reservations for those who are keen on visiting the restaurant.

In the picture above, you can see the wooden counter where the chef will perform his magic. There is a real wasabi root on the left side and you can see his sushi knives prepared. Just in front you can see two black boxes with handles sticking out, that is the soy sauce mixture that the chef will “paint” on the sushi before giving it to you.

Unlike most sushi joints outside of Japan, the top-end sushi chefs here control the way the sushi is eaten, from how much soy sauce they apply to the sushi to how fast you should eat it (usually immediately). Mixing wasabi with the soy sauce is a huge no-no for true sushi eaters. Not to mention that the sauce (nikiri) is actually a special mixture of soy sauce, dashi, sake and mirin. There is really a huge amount of detail going into what seems to be just a simple piece of sushi.

Here you can see the limited space of Sushi Saito, and directly behind me is the wall of the restaurant.

This is my table area, the plate up in front is where the chef will put the sushi for you to eat. The small wooden box with the wet towel is for you to wipe your hands if you’re using them to hold the sushi instead of using chopsticks.

This is the chef himself, Takeshi Saito-san. He looks fairly young and is a very nice guy to chat with as well. It helps that he knows a bit of English to prevent awkwardness while I was dining.

A cup of intense green tea to start the dinner!

Something to note about really top quality sushi is that the rice, also known as shari, is actually more important than the topping, known as neta. This is something most people will not understand simply because a sushi chef spends many years just learning how to perfect the rice before he is even allowed to prepare the topping.

I guess this is really the main reason why I paid so much for this meal. The rice at Sushi Saito is specially prepared with red vinegar, which lends to the rice a subtly stronger taste than normal rice vinegar.

The other outstanding thing about the rice is the warmth of it. Ideally, the sushi should be served at body temperature and also packed such that it collapses easily when placed in the mouth but yet strong enough to be picked up with chopsticks.

It sounds very obsessive but hey, that’s what all those long years of rice molding training and practice were for! When I put the sushi into my mouth, I can actually feel the shari collapsing into individual warm grains, spreading out to the far corners of my mouth. It really is a magical feeling, especially when I’ve been eating cold and dense sushi most of my life.

1st piece: Hirame

Flounder. This fish has a firm texture, more crunchy than chewy. A clean and light taste sets the mood for the rest of the meal.

2nd piece: Tai

Seabream snapper: another fish that has a light flavour and softer texture to follow up the hirame.

3rd piece: Kohada

Gizzard shad: this is similar to the taste of sardine but with a tinge of sweetness to it.

4th piece: Akami

Lean tuna: Beginning of the tuna trio. Despite being from the lean section of the tuna, it is still very tender with a strong flavour.

5th piece: Chutoro

Next piece of tuna is the medium fatty tuna: at the expense of sounding cliche, this is really a mix of the lean and fatty meats. It doesn’t yield too easily but still soft from the fats present.

6th piece: Otoro

Fatty tuna: my favourite piece of sushi, being the fatty and buttery meat that simply melts in your mouth, with all that delectable flavour! This otoro is more of the shimofuri pattern rather than dandara, which means the fats are more distributed evenly rather than in thick bands.

7th piece: Sumi ika

Squid: this sushi is one of the few toppings that most people dislike because they can never imagine eating squid raw. However the raw squid here is not disgusting but instead clean and smooth to the bite. I don’t think you can really get fresh and raw squid prepared like this outside of Japan.

8th piece: Shiro ebi

Baby white shrimp: this is a mass of de-shelled baby shrimps that have a creamy texture and all melds together like a jelly. It has a more unique and raw taste that some may not like but I find it nice.

9th piece: Kuruma ebi

Tiger prawn: This is one really huge (boiled) prawn and probably the best that I’ve ever eaten. So crunchy, warm and full of umami flavour! As a nice bonus, chef Saito left in the prawn’s brains for added kick to the taste.

10th piece: Torigai

Large cockle. It’s difficult to describe this but very close to a mix between a jelly fish and a squid. Crunchy but quite neutral in taste.

11th piece: Aji

Horse mackerel: this is a bit like tai in texture, but with the unmistakable mackerel taste. I really like the presentation of this piece because it is meaty and is topped off with ground perilla leaves, which adds a hint of mint to it.

12th piece: Katsuo

Bonito: As this fish is actually related to the tuna family, the taste is quite similar to that of lean tuna but there is a certain tangy edge to it, which is further lifted by the fresh ground ginger on it.

13th piece: Akagai

Ark shell: also known as “red clam” for its bloody colour, it was perfectly prepared by chef Saito to cup the shari! Similar to the torigai, but it is a bit more crunchy and has a deeper flavour.

14th piece: Ezo-bafun uni

“Short spined” sea urchin: this uni is from Hokkaido and has a rich orange colour. When I put it into my mouth, I can feel that smooth and creamy text texture melting away with a sweet and salty aftertaste. Eating this excellent piece of uni is like eating the essence of the sea itself.

15th piece: Kita-murasaki uni

“Purple” sea urchin: this uni is also from Hokkaido and it has a much paler yellow colour as compared to the ezo-bafun uni. However, it has a firmer texture and the taste is much richer as well, despite the faded look.

16 & 17th piece: Anago (nitsume & shio)

Yukimura

Yukimura also gained a star to join the ranks of three-starred Japanese cuisine eateries. Dishes are inspired by Kyoto cuisine, with many ingredients sourced from Kyoto.
Address: 3F, 1-5-5 Azabujuban, Minato, Tokyo
Phone: (03)5772 1610

Seisoka

Debuting at two stars, this surprising newcomer serves up traditional Kyoto cuisine.
Address: 4-2-34 Minami Azabu, Minato, Tokyo
Telephone: (03)3473 3103

Rokkaku

This is the first izakaya to be featured in the guide. It’s also in good company, located in the same building as fellow honouree Yukimura.
Address: 4F, 1-5-5 Azabujuban, Minato, Tokyo
Telephone: (03)3401 8516

Rokukakutei

六覺燈
ロクカクテイ

This is the first kushiage restaurant to make it into the guide. Even if you can’t make it to the original Rokukakutei in Osaka, this is an ideal place to enjoy kushiage with wine right here in Tokyo.

Address: 4F Kojun Bldg, 6-8-7 Ginza, Chuo, Tokyo
Telephone: (03)5537 6008
Open: Mon-Sun 2pm-11pm, LO 10pm, closed Tue
Website: http://nttbj.itp.ne.jp/0355376008/index.html?Media_cate=populer&svc=1303

Takahashi

Takahashi is one of the yakitori newcomers. The head chef, who is experienced in French cuisine, serves up a gitaro gunkei breed chicken cooked over hot coals. An extensive wine list is available.

Address: 2F Libio Gotanda Praguma G Tower, 1-7-1 Gotanda, Shinagawa, Tokyo
Telephone: (03)5436 9677
Open: Mon-Sat 11:30am-LO 1:30pm 5pm-8pm 8:15pm-10:20pm, closed Sun and every first and third Mon

stellar yakitori in gotanda

Who'd have thought it? Yakitori so good that it catches the attention not just of the Food File but also the Michelin inspectors (or should that be the other way round)? Not just one great place but two — and in down-at-heel Gotanda no less.

The idea of gourmet yakitori is nothing new. There are plenty of restaurants around town where the humble art of skewering and grilling chicken has been elevated to a degree of sophistication. But you don't expect to find it in the back streets of Gotanda, just north of Shinagawa.

Finest fowl: Chef Kenji Yoshimoto (above) uses only premium chicken at his yakitoriya, Yoshicho. Other popular dishes include ontama soboro-don, a rice bowl with chicken and egg, and skewers of shiitake and gingko nuts.

More seedy than downright sleazy, the block immediately to the east of the Yamanote Line tracks is lined with cheap drinking dens and massage parlors. But there are also clear signs of gentrification — and none more so than the presence of Yoshicho.

You'd never stumble on it by chance. Hidden from view on the second floor of a newish building just off Sakurada-Dori, there is little inside or out to suggest that this unpretentious restaurant, with its open kitchen, glass-enclosed grill, counter seats and three small tables, is anything out of the ordinary. It's the food and not the setting that makes it worth searching out.

Unlike many yakitori chefs whose skills are solely limited to grilling, owner-chef Kenji Yoshimoto is trained in the spectrum of traditional Japanese cuisine. He has a deftness of touch that is obvious from the outset, even in the otoshinanonhana greens with an aemono (starter) that arrives with your first drink — perhaps a small serving of dressing lightly spiced with mustard.

Although chicken is the main event and your reason for being there, Yoshimoto has a couple of appetizers on his menu that are well worth trying. One we loved was his take on onsen-tamago (soft-coddled eggs), which he serves chilled on a gelee of rich chicken stock.

Another unusual offering is the sasami kazeboshi, strips of chicken breast meat that have been wind-dried until they have a jerky-like texture and deep orange-amber color that's almost translucent. After being gently warmed to soften it, the meat is cut into slivers for nibbling on — a brilliant accompaniment for one of the better labels of premium sake on Yoshicho's list, perhaps the Kokuryu daiginjo or Juyondai junmai-ginjo.

The yakitori is equally good. One reason for this is that Yoshimoto grills it over premium kishu bincho charcoal. But the main factor is the quality of the chicken itself. He only uses a variety of free-range fowl called shamorokku, a cross between Japanese shamo gamecocks and the U.S. Plymouth Rock breed. Bred in rural Aomori Prefecture, their meat is excellent, with a firm texture and plenty of flavor.

A good start would be to order one of Yoshimoto's yakitori set courses (¥1,500 for five skewers; ¥2,400 for eight). The five-stick set, served one item at a time, included excellent negima, juicy chunks of chicken interspersed with negi leek; a skewer of okra (each set course includes one vegetable) and sunagimo gizzards, dense but not gritty.

But the two standout items we were served were the tsukune, a long patty of ground chicken beautifully browned and perfectly cooked inside; and the kyomiso-yaki, a stick of white meat, daubed with Kyoto-style white miso and scattered artfully with poppy seeds. Equally good was the donburi rice bowl that we closed our meal with, topped with oboro (ground chicken meat) and another of those onsen-tamago eggs.

Subtlety and finesse are not words usually used in describing yakitori, but this chicken is prepared and presented with the kind of artisan care it deserves. At the same time, Yoshicho has a warm, friendly feel. No doubt this is due to the fact that the young assistant is Yoshimoto's brother and the waitress serving your sake is likely to be his mother.

Is Yoshicho the finest yakitori joint in the neighborhood? That's a very hard call, because over on the other side of Gotanda Station you will find Takahashi, another yakitoriya of rare quality.

It, too, is a small place tucked away inconspicuously on the second floor of a

Toriki

Toriki is another one of the yakitori eateries noted this year. Toriki features counter seating much like a sushi or other Japanese-style restaurant. Other dishes on the menu include nabe

(Japanese hot pot). Address: 1F Kosaka Bldg, 1-8-13 Kinshicho, Sumida, Tokyo
Telephone: (03)3622 6202

Perhaps it’s because chicken’s such a standard, staple food. It’s not normally hawked with the same ardor as say, a t-bone steak. Or perhaps it’s because the American chicken industry, despite the presence of many cage-free, organic farms, is largely dominated by intensive chicken farmers selling unhealthy chickens that are in turn, not so tasty and potentially even too dangerous for ingestion. Whatever the case, the general lack of enthusiasm and integrity surrounding the purveying of chicken in the U.S. has subsequently made me pretty indifferent to pollo. Until last night. I now have an entirely changed view on poultry thanks to Mr. and Mrs. Aihara at Toriki. I’ve always appreciated yakitori, but this yakitori shop blows the rest out of the water.

The meal starts with a simple, complimentary chicken broth. And when I say simple, I actually mean really complex –an intensely rich, scalding hot chicken broth that only acquires such a fine taste when you boil a fresh, whole chicken, drawing out the flavors of the bones, the marrow, the skin, and the offal. Upon first slurp, this broth instantly brought me back to my childhood with sensations only inspired by my mom’s Taiwanese chicken soup. Her soup, normally made late at night after dinner was already finished, consisted of nothing but chicken broth (she submerged the entire chicken which would be used for later meals), chicken innards, specifically the heart, liver, and gizzards, sliced daikon radishes, and cucumbers. A side dip of soy sauce, sesame oil, rice vinegar, and ginger accompanied the soup, giving extra zing to the giblets, but the soup itself had few ingredients and was delectably uncomplicated. It was the ultimate comfort food in our household. I liken the moment I tasted the broth at Toriki to a scene from the movie “Ratatouille” in which the long-faced, notoriously harsh British food critic, Anton Ego, takes his first bite of the ratatouille in question, immediately evoking vivid flashbacks of his childhood, his mother, her ratatouille and her embrace, and eliciting a never-before-seen smile from the grump. Yes, I had such an Anton Ego moment at Toriki.

Following the soup, we ordered breast meat topped with shredded daikon radish and garlic, breast meat and leek skewers, gizzards, skin, a number of other Toriki original menu chicken items, and “chicken sashimi”– raw white meat, slightly seared on the outside. As an American, there’s something delightfully mischievous about eating raw chicken.

Yakitori shops, just like izakayas in Japan, tend to be just as much about drinking and chatting as they are about eating. We washed down all of the chicken, and it was a lot, over a whole chicken each, with ice-cold beers on tap as we talked at the chicken bar with Mr. and Mrs. Aihara, the very warm and hospitable couple behind Toriki. Knowing that the restaurant was featured on Anthony Bourdain’s “No Reservations,” I asked them about their impressions of that experience and whether or not it had any positive effect on their business. (It did). Mr. and Mrs. Aihara gladly talked at length about this subject and a number of others late into the night with us. Upon leaving, they wished me the best of luck with my academic endeavors, and I assured them that I would be back before the start of the school year. I’ve concluded that the total Toriki experience is not just about the deliciously fresh chicken, but, as cliché as it sounds, also about the passion and sincerity of the owners, as well as the genuinely friendly service, where customer experience is more important than customer turnover. This has definitely become one of my go-to restaurants for when out-of-town visitors come to Japan.

Birdland

This starred yakitori joint features okukuji shamo breed chicken from Okukuji, in northwest Ibaraki Prefecture. They also dish out a home-made pâté.
Address: B1F Tsukamoto Suzan Bldg, 4-2-15 Ginza, Chuo, Tokyo
Telephone: (03)5250 1081
Open: 5pm-9:30pm, closed Mon, Sun and nat. holidays
Website: ginza-birdland.sakura.ne.jp/

Birdland

Yoshitori

This Shinagawa yakitori serves up Michelin-worthy chicken and Japanese spirits.
Address: 1-12-9 Gotanda, Shinagawa, Tokyo
Phone: (03)5793 5050

Travel Tips

If you're visiting Japan soon – and the end of September is a great time, with autumn leaves starting to change colour – there are some things you should know first. I give you some starting tips for impressing the locals with your cultural know-how.

Eating:

* Chopsticks in rice. Do not stick your hashi (chopsticks) upright in a bowl of rice. This is how rice is offered to the dead in Buddhist rituals. Similarly, do not pass food from your chopsticks to someone else’s. This is another funereal ritual.

* Polite expressions. When eating with other people, especially when you’re a guest, it is polite to say ‘itadakimasu’ (literally, ‘I will receive’) before digging in. This is as close as the Japanese come to saying grace. Similarly, at the end of the meal, you should thank your host by saying ‘gochiso-sama deshita’, which means ‘It was a real feast’.
* Kampai. It is bad form to fill your own glass. You should fill the glass of the person next to you and wait for them to reciprocate. Raise your glass a little off the table while it is being filled. Once everyone’s glass has been filled, the usual starting signal is a chorus of ‘kampai’, which means ‘cheers!’
* Slurp. When you eat noodles in Japan, it’s perfectly OK, even expected, to slurp them. In fact, one of the best ways to find ramen (egg noodle) restaurants in Japan is to listen for the loud slurping sound that comes out of them.

Shoes:
Take your shoes off when entering a private home or anywhere with a tatami floor. Sometimes slippers are provided, with a separate set for the toilet.

Making a payment:
In a shop, instead of handing cash to the assistant, place your money on the small tray they keep next to the till.

Visiting a shrine:
Entering a shrine can be a bewildering experience. Just past the gate you’ll find a chozuya (trough of water) with a hishaku (long-handed ladle) to purify yourself. Take a ladle, fill it with water, pour some over one hand, then transfer the spoon and pour water over the other hand. Finally, pour water into your cupped hand and rinse your mouth, spitting the water onto the ground.

Public baths:
Bathing at an onsen (hot spring) or sento (public bath) is a quintessentially Japanese experience. Baths are separated by gender, and the changing room will have baskets or lockers for storing clothes and a bath towel. Bring a washcloth and toiletries with you into the bathing area (soap and shampoo are often provided). There will be a row of taps along one wall. Find an empty spot and scrub yourself down.

Once you’re clean, rinse completely before going anywhere near the baths. The communal baths are meant for soaking and shouldn’t be adulterated by soap, or – shock horror – dirt.

Onsen or sento may have a variety of baths with varying temperatures, cold pools, saunas or even an electric bath. If there’s a rotenburo (outdoor bath), you should give it a try. There’s nothing more satisfying than soaking in the open air with steam curling around your ears as you contemplate the night sky.
Kaiseki-ryori: Japanese haute cuisine Sushi has come a long way from its street-snack origins back in the early 1800s; in 2009, a couple of Tokyo sushi bars each earned three Michelin stars. And while it carries a certain special-occasion cachet internationally, sushi is by no means the Japanese zenith of gastronomy. That honour goes to the cuisine known as kaiseki-ryori.

With its origins stemming from the delicacies offered to the imperial court, kaiseki-ryori synthesises some of the best Japanese values: harmony, balance and an appreciation of the moment. While that might sound pretentiously abstract, a kaiseki meal is truly intended to appeal to all of the senses.

Served in small courses, each dish is prepared with the freshest seasonally-available ingredients, the balance of flavours and textures appreciated not only by the palate, but also visually and experientially. Before allowing that tendril of delicately battered calamari to hit the tongue, a diner should first admire the artistic manner in which the tempura was arranged upon the gold-flecked Japanese paper lining its woven bamboo dish. One should also take in the minimalist beauty of the quiet dining room, and perhaps reflect on the view of the traditional garden outside the sliding screen.

Japanese food
As each course is finished, it is cleared away for presentation of the next, the kaiseki meal a beautiful procession of contrasting tastes and tactile sensations. Lifting the cover of a lacquer bowl might reveal a clear broth with a tiny cube of silken tofu and shreds of chive and citron, followed by a charcoal brazier bearing a small grilled fish, after which an arrangement of candy-coloured dumplings and local wild vegetables might appear on a dish of rustic stoneware. The meal is often finished with a traditional sweet – such as a sticky rice cake in the shape of a purple blossom, with paper-thin slices of pear shaped like leaves.

Kaiseki-ryori is best exemplified in the restaurants and ryokan (inns) of Kyoto. As the cultural capital of Japan, traditional arts are actively cultivated in the city. Though the formality of the experience can be intimidating to foreigners, enjoying a kaiseki meal in Kyoto is highly accessible and offers a delicious encounter that can’t be exported.

If staying in a traditional Kyoto inn, a kaiseki dinner is often included in accommodation rates. In the inn setting, you can consider yourself respectably attired for such a dignified supper if you dress in the cotton kimono provided in your room (bonus: you're dressed in what is essentially a bathrobe and can loosen the sash if you find that the meal was five courses longer than you expected). Alternatively, you could reserve in advance at a highly-regarded establishment like Kikunoi to fully experience the kind of special-occasion atmosphere that befits a first kaiseki-ryori.

Top 10 places to shop in Tokyo
You can shop ’til you drop in Tokyo – just watch the Japanese. Here, people shop as they work – long and hard – and while many of the items are taken home and eventually worn or indulged in by the buyer, an equal amount is used as gifts to impress those in complex social and business relationships. Above all, the craving for new products – shinhatsubai – is insatiable, enough to fuel a chain specialising in the most popular new goods. The central dispensers of most goods are depato (department stores), many of which are owned by the companies that also operate the train lines – hence the sprawling retail clusters around the busiest train stations. Of course, Tokyo has an abundance of smaller, more eccentric shops. Many are found on the backstreets of Harajuku, Shibuya and Ebisu and display items that are lovingly designed and crafted. Trendy Shibuya, a haven for teenagers always surfing the latest trends, has innumerable original storefronts tucked between chain stores.

If you are in Tokyo for only a few days, head for Omote-sando or Harajuku, which has some of the city’s most interesting high- and low-fashion boutiques. For status shopping, go straight to Ginza glam or the southern reaches of Omote-sando and Minami-Aoyama. If you’ve got more time, roam through Ebisu, Shibuya and the odd little old-timey craft shops on the side streets and in the alleys of Asakusa. Foreign otaku (geeks) should definitely hit Akihabara and Shinjuku for manga and electronics. And a stroll down one of Tokyo’s shopping streets can reveal unexpected finds.

Lastly, though bargaining is the norm in most of Asia, in Japan it’s simply not done – except at flea markets and the occasional electronics store. Just politely ask‘chotto, motto yasuku dekimasuka?’(Can you make it a bit cheaper?)

1. Ginza
Ginza is the affluent shopping district in Tokyo – one look around Mitsukoshi will testify to this. But tucked in between some of the more imposing façades are simpler pleasures like fine papers and shelves full of ingenious toys. Shopping options here truly reflect the breadth and depth of the city’s consumer culture, which is equal parts high fashion glitz and down-to-earth dedication to craft.

2. Asakusa
Now decidedly relaxed, Asakusa was once the heart of Edo's low city, home to artisans, merchants and prostitutes. Its small lanes and winding alleyways are still full of surprises, from venerable doll shops to virtuosic drum makers such as Taiko-kan. For straight gift shopping, Nakamise-dori is not bad for souvenir trinkets – try the back streets for better-quality stuff. The long stretch of Kappabashi-dori also yields uniquely Japanese curiosities in its little culinary-supply shops.

3. Shinjuku
A few stops east of Shinjuku, the height of buildings descend to a more human scale. A stroll up the Kagurazaka slope from Iidabashi Station will turn up several shops selling geta (traditional wooden sandals) and drawstring purses made from lavish kimono fabric. Elsewhere in the area, wedged in unexpected places between pharmacies, groceries and pachinko (vertical pinball-game) parlours, are shops carrying goods like Czech puppets and hand-painted kites. Jimbocho is the place to go for rare books, both Japanese and English.

4. Roppongi
Though Roppongi is best known for wild bars and pick-up joints, it’s also home to a few of the city’s most interesting and idiosyncratic shops and showrooms and its new shopping megamalls, Roppongi Hills and Tokyo Midtown. Of special interest in Roppongi are the Axis showroom, showcasing contemporary design, and Japan Sword, which displays and sells the exquisite weaponry of the samurai.

5. Ebisu
Ebisu is often overlooked, though its shops, like its restaurants, are some of the most forward-thinking and interesting in the city. Yebisu Garden Place, an open-air mall connected to the Ebisu JR Station by moving walkways, is a good place to start. If you’re more interested in one-of-a-kind wares hotfoot it up the hill toward Daikanyama and Hachiman-dori.

6. Shibuya
Shibuya is the fountain of teen trendiness in Japan. If you’re over 30 you might feel way too old, but just cruise and amuse yourself in the madness. Music shops and cheap, outrageous apparel are everywhere, as are the hip kids who come to primp and pose. At weekends, the street in front of the 109 Building closes to all but foot traffic.

7. Harajuku & Aoyama
Home to the famed Harajuku girls, Takeshita-dori and the alleys packed with small, independent designers’ shops and secondhand stores, Omote-sando is the most eclectic, experimental neighbourhood in Tokyo. High fashion rules the Aoyama end of Omote-sando, where fashionable’ has an entirely different meaning than it has for the hipsters of Harajuku layering haute couture with second-hand finds. Creatively active but solidly established, Aoyama is grownup, refined yet innovative. It's no wonder artistic designers and high fashion flagship stores have made this section of Tokyo their creative home.

8. Shinjuku
Shopping in Shinjuku can be a little overwhelming. From the moment you step out of the train station (ringed by malls and department stores), the lights and noise make the whole place seem like the interior of a bustling casino. But there are some great shops amid all the chaos, and you can find just about anything your heart desires here. Two branches of the Kinokuniya bookstore are here, as is stately Isetan, one of Tokyo’s most revered department stores, which caters to the young set. It is also a great place to come to shop for electronics if you’re not motivated to trek all the way to Akihabara.

9. Ikebukuro
Prices on everyday commodities like eyeglasses may be slightly cheaper in Ikebukuro – come here to buy no-frills stuff, not Prada. Ikebukuro has big department stores, but it’s never quite taken off as a shopping destination. What it is good for is bargains on wares you’ll find in other parts of the city. If you’re an anime or manga fan, check out the shops along Otome Rd by the Sunshine City complex.

10. Odaiba
Odaiba was designed as an entertainment and shopping mecca, so it should come as no surprise that two of its main attractions are malls with views over the water. You’ll find both big-name designers and small shops here. Venus Fort is worth a peek to take in its timed sunrise and sunset (artificial, of course).

Tokyo’s department-store basements take shopping to another level

Depachika = depa (short for depaato, or department store) + chika (basement)

Why is there a Japanese word for ‘department-store basement’? Step into one and you’ll immediately comprehend the import of such a word.

Every Japanese department store worth its hand-harvested sea salt will have its own depachika, some of which encompass several floors, and all of which are crammed with individual shops carrying a dizzying array of high-quality comestibles. These immaculate shrines to consumption contain all manner of raw and prepared foods, ranging from fresh baby sardines on ice to delicately scented lavender-and-vanilla macarons. Shoppers could spend a fortune on the finest shade-grown green tea from Fukuoka and seasonally-themed wagashi (traditional Japanese sweets), or simply roam the maze of shops for a feast of the visual variety.

It’s probably wise not to visit with hunger pangs, as a glance at the gleaming pastry counters or trays of crispy tempura will elicit them anyway. Aisles snaking between the various shops and counters lead to bountiful displays of cakes, shiny unblemished fruits, packages of pickled vegetables and marbled cuts of marbled wagyu beef. But the ubiquity of department stores around Tokyo also makes depachika convenient places to pick up a bento box for a quick picnic lunch that feels as decadent as it is inexpensive. They’re also fantastic spots to spend one’s last stash of yen before hopping the train to the airport – pick up some gorgeously packaged petits fours, crunchy rice crackers or dried shredded squid for the folks at home, and pick up a couple of onigiri (rice balls) for an in-flight snack.

In cosmopolitan Tokyo, fierce competition keeps the depachika on top of lucrative gourmet trends. The debut of a heavily touted cream puff can mean hours of queuing for the ensuing months-long feeding frenzy. There’s even a website (www.depachika.com, in Japanese) tracking current food fairs, limited-time bargains and special-guest vendors, so that OLs (office ladies) can snap up gourmet deals on their way home from work.

Time your visit for the hour before closing – usually around 8pm – when prices are significantly slashed on everything from packaged sushi to perfectly ripe Asian pears. Or simply stop in to goggle at the artistically arranged counter displays and nibble at the samples.

Tokyo’s top five depachika:

Isetan (3-14-1 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku): Commonly recognised as the best in Tokyo, Isetan is the best depachika for taming a sweet tooth

Daimaru (1-9-1 Marunouchi, Chiyoda-ku): Centrally located at Tokyo Station

Takashimaya (2-4-1 Nihonbashi, Chuo-ku): Another venerable giant in the heart of Tokyo

Mitsukoshi (4-6-16 Ginza, Chuo-ku): In the Ginza shopping district

Electric Town Akihabara
From multi-storied computer stores and back-alley discount camera shops to anime-themed cafes and the latest in costume-play fashions, Akihabara (Electric Town) is Tokyo's thriving epicentre for electronic goods and otaku culture alike.

Renaissance of geekdom
For many years Akihabara was off the radar for most foreign visitors, aside from a few in-the-know tourists looking to score some cheap electronics. However, following the rapidly increasing global popularity of otaku culture - and indeed all things Japanese - a visit to Akihabara is becoming something of a Tokyo staple.

So what exactly does it mean to be an otaku? At the general level, an otaku is a person displaying an obsessive interest. In reference to Akihabara however, an otaku is someone (generally male, but not always) who devotes considerable time and energy to watching anime, reading manga (Japanese comics) and playing video games.

While admission of geekdom once carried a strongly negative connotation, the otaku movement is currently enjoying a global renaissance. One prominent example is the former Japanese Prime Minister Taro Aso, who proudly admitted his love of manga to journalists, and included the promotion of this culture on his foreign policy agenda.

Exploring Akihabara
With its street touts hawking cheap goods, electronic bells ringing with inimitable sound and fury, and frenetic street scenes of lights and beeps, Akihabara can quickly overwhelm the senses. This self-proclaimed ‘Electric Town’ was born out of a post-war black market for radio components, and later matured into household appliances.

For a nostalgic glimpse at the past, the Akihabara Radio Center (1-14-2 Sotokanda, Chiyoda-ku) is a two-storey warren of fifty-plus electronics stalls that lies under the elevated railway. As the original, still-beating heart of Akihabara, this area caters strictly to old-school electronics otaku.

These days however, the bread-and-butter of Akihabara is computers and their associated parts, which fosters a growing DIY-community. Considerable spotlight also shines on the recent proliferation of so-called ‘maid cafes’, where anime-esque waitresses greet patrons in otaku speak. But Akihabara is ever protean, and always a step ahead into the next consumer phase.
Walking tour

Start off at the Kaiyodo Hobby Lobby (4fl Radio Kaikan, 1-15-16 Sotokanda, Chiyoda-ku), a hardcore collector’s plastic dream as evidenced by the Neon Genesis Evangelion statues outside. Inside are figurines from all walks of Japanese science fiction.

Continue on to the Tsukumo Robot Okoku (1-9-7 Sotokanda, Chiyoda-ku), a shop at the forefront of the home robot revolution. Here you can pick up a futuristic bipedal humanoid robot, or a cutesy-cool talking Hello Kitty.

A highlight of Akihabara is the Tokyo Anime Center (4-14-1 Soto-Kanda, Chiyoda-ku), which promotes the latest happenings in the ever-expanding world of anime. An onsite theatre hosts regular movie screenings and frequent appearances by voice actors and animators.

Business lunches on the go
Home to some of the best street food on the planet, Tokyo’s street food scene is all about walking, stopping, sampling and repeating, as many times over as you’ve space to try more. Ask for directions to tiny Yakitori Alley’in Shinjuku, where Japanese kebabs of all varieties are grilled up, wander the Kabukicho district to try the very best takoyaki (octopus dumplings), look out for little okonimayaki (Japanese pancake) joints, or slurp up huge bowls of ramen noodle soup. For the ultimate exotic street food lunch, however, make for Nihon Saisei Sakaba (Marunaka Bldg, 1F, 3-7-3 Shinjuku) where the yakitori consists of such delicacies as pork brain and tongue, perhaps accompanied by a nice tripe salad. Meanwhile, on wintry Tokyo days, look out for oden (Japanese hot pot) stalls, where the combination of fish cakes, boiled eggs and daikon radish will warm even the chilliest of street-side diners.

Tokyo’s top shopping strips

Tokyoites shop as they work – long and hard. Despite a challenging economy, Edokko (Tokyoites’ nickname for themselves; literally ‘children of Edo) continue to shop, for themselves and for gifts to grease the wheels of complex social and business relationships. Since the time of the Tokugawas, this city has craved the latest and greatest.

1. Ameyoko Arcade (アメヤ横丁)

One of Tokyo’s only old-fashioned, open-air pedestrian markets and a good place for bargains – from spices to shoes. This unabashed shopping street is one of the few areas in which some of the rough readiness of old Shitamachi still lingers. Step into this alley paralleling the JR Yamanote Line tracks south of JR Ueno Station, and ritzy, glitzy Tokyo may seem like a distant memory. The gravelly irasshai (Welcome) and ikaga desu ka? (How about buying some?) of fishmongers, fruit and vegetable sellers, knock-off-clothing vendors and a healthy smattering of open-air markets couldn’t be further from Ginza or Aoyama. Ameyoko earned its notoriety as a blackmarket district in the years following WWII, though today it’s primarily a bargain shopping area. Simple shops spill out into the alleys, selling block after block of cheap clothing (for Japan, anyway), produce, dried fruit, dried nori (seaweed), dried mushrooms and dried squid. Some of the same tourist items on sale in Ginza sell here at more reasonable rates. Shopkeepers also stand on less ceremony than those in other shopping areas in Tokyo, brazenly hawking their goods with guttural cries to the passing crowds. In the Ameyoko Center building, Chinese, Korean and Southeast Asian merchants have set up their own shopping arcade where you’ll find exotic cooking spices, fresh seafood, durian fruit and other unusual imported items.

2.Hachiman-dori (八幡通り)

Lined with shops purveying high and low fashion trends, this street is a delightful treasure hunt for local designs. Tokyo’s southwestern corner has some of the most forward-thinking and interesting shopping in the city. Yebisu Garden Place, connected to JR Ebisu Station by moving walkways, has general mall and department store shopping, while up Hachiman-dōri, Daikanyama is the place to go for one-of-akind clothing by local designers.

3. Kappabashi-dōri (合羽橋通り)

Food, food everywhere, and nary a rice grain to eat – because it’s plastic. This street is most famous for its shops selling plastic food models, but Kappabashidōri supplies many a Tokyo restaurant in bulk, selling matching sets of chopsticks, uniforms, woven bamboo tempura trays and tiny ceramic shōyu (soy sauce) dishes. This makes it the perfect street for stocking up if you’re setting up an apartment or seeking small, useful souvenirs.

4. Marunouchi Naka-dōri (丸の内仲通り)

A dignified assortment of top international brands. Tokyo’s epicentre boasts two of its oldest-line department stores in stately Nihombashi, and busy malls like Oazo and the Marunouchi Building by Tokyo Station, as well as in the station itself. International name-brand luxury shoppers and luxury gawkers will find plenty to enjoy along Marunouchi-Naka-dōri.

5. Nakamise-dōri (仲見世通り)

Leading up to the grand gate that opens onto Sensō-ji, this is home to countless trinket, snack and knick-knack shops. Nakamise-dōri, the long, crowded pedestrian lane running from Kaminarimon gate to Hōzōmon gate, has more than 80 stalls that for centuries have been helping the Japanese people fulfil their gift-giving obligations. The wide alley is chock-a-block with small shops selling temple paraphernalia as well as traditional items of varying beauty and quality. The little arcade of Nakamise-dōri is also the place to pick up locally made, salty sembei (crispy rice crackers) and age-manju (deep-fried bean buns).

6. Takeshita-dōri (竹下通り)

Takeshita-dōri is to teenagers what Omote-Sandō is to dilettantes. This teeming alley, which lies at the heart of Harajuku, represents Tokyo’s propensity for both teenage kitsch and subcultural fetish. Boom boxes blare at full volume while young, angst-decorated adolescents browse through racks of cheap versions of the day’s latest trend. This is the place to look for outrageously gaudy jewellery, punk accessories, trendy hair boutiques, fast-food joints and cuddly toys.

7. Nippori Nuno no Machi (日暮里布の街)

Where seamstresses, tailors and designers buy their fabrics. If you’ve got a notion to sew, decorate or you like clothing on the cheap, this several-block stretch east of Nippori Station will hit you like a proverbial bolt. Dozens of shops purvey buttons to brocade, bathrobes and blankets, used kimono and contemporary wear. Many of the wares are off-price or remnants. If you’re seeking something particular, shop around before leaving home; some of the fabrics are generic and you might find better deals where you come from.

8. Omote-Sandō (表参道)

Known as the centre of Tokyo’s haute couture culture, Omote-Sandō is the place to take in Tokyo fashion on parade. Home to the famed Harajuku girls, Takeshita- dōri and the alleys packed with small, independent designers’ shops and secondhand stores, Omote-Sandō is the most eclectic, experimental neighbourhood in Tokyo. High fashion rules the Aoyama end of Omote- Sandō, where ‘fashionable’ has an entirely different meaning than it has for the hipsters of Harajuku layering haute couture with secondhand finds. Creatively active but solidly established, Aoyama is grown-up, refined yet innovative. It’s no wonder artistic designers and high-fashion flagship stores have made this section of Tokyo their creative home.

9. MISC (ミスク)

Meguro Interior Shops Community is an up-and-coming design district along Meguro-dōri, west of Yamate-dōri, with some 60 design shops and dozens more cafes and restaurants. Look for vintage 1960s modern furniture, antiques from Japan and overseas, and stylish furnishings. Individual shop hours vary, but afternoons tend to be busiest and Wednesday is the most common closing day.

One fine day in Tokyo
Lacking the geometric precision of gridded streets, the dense sprawl of Tokyo can be mind-blowing to the uninitiated. But the key to breaking down this urban complexity is simply to view the capital as an amalgamation of mini-cities.

Early Morning
A visit to the world’s largest fish market at Tsukiji (5-2-1 Tsukiji, Chuo-ku) will awaken all of your senses. More than 2000 tonnes of seafood, worth well over US$15 million, are sold here daily. Watch as fresh tuna is sliced up with samurai-like precision, and then taste a sushi breakfast so fresh it still wriggles in your mouth. But don’t delay, as the Tokyo Metropolitan Government plans to relocate the market elsewhere in 2014.

Midday
A huge swathe of reclaimed land floating in the middle of the bay, Odaiba is a futuristic pleasure district for Tokyoites looking for a little retail therapy. It also serves as a physical testament to the heady investment dreams of the Bubble Era.

The headquarters of Fuji TV (2-4-8 Daiba, Minato-ku), an unmistakable ball-shaped structure, is home to one of the city’s best observatories. Malls dominate the rest of the landscape, with heaps of big name stores, theme dining and game arcades strewn about.

Public bathing in onsen (hot springs) is a therapeutic Japanese tradition. At Ooedo Onsen Monogatari (2-57 Aomi, Kotoku) steaming hot mineral water is pumped 1400m up from below Tokyo Bay, and channelled into nostalgic Edo-style soaking pools.

Afternoon
Continuing with the theme of Old Edo, head to the historic temple district of Asakusa, which is centred on Senso-ji (2-3-1 Asakusa, Taitoku). The temple enshrines a golden statue of Kannon, the Goddess of Mercy, reportedly fished out of the nearby Sumida River by two fishermen in 628 CE.

A 10-minute walk west lands you on Kappabashi-dori, a wholesale kitchenware and restaurant-supply district. Shop for gourmet accessories, bizarre kitchen gadgets and even the life-like plastic models of food that appear throughout the city.

Evening
Step out of Shibuya Station sometime after dark, and you’ll find yourself in the Tokyo of your dreams. At Shibuya Crossing, a mind-blowing spectacle of blazing neon, streets radiate out like a starburst and thronging crowds of shoppers buzz with adolescent exuberance.

This side of Tokyo is also home to the signature landmark of Roppongi Hills (Roppongi 6-chome), with expertly-drawn lines of steel and glass, expansive tree-lined public spaces and a healthy smattering of the city’s top restaurants, bars and shops.

5 things you didn't think to pack for Japan

There are some things that are obvious choices from your trip to Japan. Extra memory card to capture all those wild street fashions. Extra suitcase for vending machine trinkets. But tissues?

Non-Lacing Shoes
One of Japan’s best-known customs is removing shoes upon entering a home. But a lot of other places you might visit – ryokans, temples, museums, historical sites, even some restaurants – may require that you doff your footwear at the door, too. Make things easier for yourself – and save time – by forgoing those high lace-up boots for shoes that simply slip on and off, or else have Velcro fasteners.

Tissues
If you're eating out casually in Japan – in cafes, getting takeaway, etc – you'll notice that napkins often aren't given out to customers. It's a good idea to carry a travel packet of tissues with you for snack times (especially if you're travelling with kids).

Washcloth
Public bathrooms in Japan usually don't have paper towels, and there are some that don't even have hand dryers (or else there's only one, which might mean waiting). Keep a small towel or washcloth in your bag for drying your hands after you’ve washed them. (A cool, moist towel on your neck will also help keep you cool during Japan's hot and humid summer.)

Hand Sanitiser
Similarly, some bathrooms you encounter may not even have soap, especially on shinkansen (bullet trains). A small bottle of hand sanitiser will come in handy, even for the non-germophobes.

Umbrella
Even if you're visiting outside of (plum rain) season (June and July), Japan's island-weather system means it can rain almost any time of the year. Inexpensive umbrellas are available for purchase, of course, but they don't fold up, and you may find that a compact travel umbrella is easier to carry when the sun comes out again.

The 6 best cities to get lost in
Put your map away and spin round three times – it's time to get lost. Going off the radar in a strange city can be the perfect way to uncover its secrets, get a feel for the layout and meet the locals.

Of course, there's good lost and bad lost. It's best done on purpose, with plenty of time to spare and a sound way to get found again.Tokyo has an excellent public transport system. If it all gets too much, jump a train back to home base.